Project Description

The New Leader – Ice

This is a 3 day “learn to lead” program. It is intended to be paired with the 2 day multipitch application course. However, we present the curriculum independently for clarity and to accommodate those who may need to break the 5 days of coursework into 2 blocks for scheduling reasons.

Technical Skills:
Belayer positioning
Assess frequency and availability of protection
Fall consequence
Extending placements
Protecting the follower

Detailed discussion on tool placement security
Focus on stable stance to place protection
Mindset of climbing above gear and understanding ability

Program Itinerary

Day 1: 7:30 am start
We meet in the office on day 1 for introductions and a discussion about the risks of being a lead climber. After a quick gear shake down we’re off to the ice park to review movement, ice screws, anchor construction, and then get into the curriculum for lead climbing. This day is focused on forming an understanding of the system while still on toprope.

Day 2: 7:30 am start
Now we dive deeper into the details. Frequency and availability of protection, fall consequence, protecting the follower; as much as we can cover in the day. Participants will do mock leads.

Day 3: 7:30 am start
Again, we’ll discuss the risks of climbing above protection then for participants who are ready actual lead climbs will begin. Instructors will position themselves where they can assist in case a new leader gets into trouble.

Program Dates

January 2-4, 2019
February 1-3, 2019
February 14-16, 2019
March 11-13, 2019

Program Details


$685 per person.

Cost includes: Instruction and guiding with an AMGA certified instructor/guide, technical ice climbing equipment and transportation to the climbing area each day from the office.


Ice Fundamentals & Ice Movement Courses
Ability to toprope WI4 confidently


Maximum of 3:1

Ouray Ice Climbing Equipment List (PDF)