Ruth Gorge Alpine Climbing

The Ruth is the true alpine climber’s playground of Alaska with more established routes than any other area in the Alaska Range. The Ruth Glacier area is comprised of several distinct zones, each boasting their own classic climbs: The Root Canal Glacier, The Ruth Gorge, The Ruth Amphitheater, and the West fork of the Ruth Glacier.

Mountain Trip will now be handling booking for Ruth Gorge Alpine Climbing. Please call 970-369-1153 to book.

The Root Canal Glacier is the basecamp location for the Moose’s Tooth south facing routes including Ham and Eggs (V, WI4/5.9). Expeditions aimed for this objective may want to consider the option of a plane bump to a different area after climbing their objective on the Moose’s Tooth.

The Ruth Gorge offers some of the most moderate climbs in the area such as the West Face of Mt. Dickey (II, 40 degree snow) or the Japanese Couloir on Mt. Barrill (III, 70 degrees snow/ice). There are many more advanced routes in the Ruth Gorge to choose from as well.

The Ruth Amphitheater includes intermediate alpine climbing options such as the SW Face of Mt. Dan beard (IV, Steep Snow, 5.8) and introductory snow climbs like the east face of Explorer’s Peak (II, 40 degrees) which is located in the North fork of the Ruth Glacier.

The West fork of the Ruth Glacier offers one of the most classic climbs in the area known as the SW Ridge of Peak 11,300 (V, 5,8, 60 degrees) which is reminiscent of a lower elevation and relatively less serious cousin of Denali’s Cassin Ridge.

Season

Conditions are generally good for alpine climbing in the Alaska Range from April to July. Exact dates depend greatly on the objective.

Group Size

This is a private program, no one else will be paired with your party. If your group is larger than 2, we apply a group discount and additional guides are added to keep the guest to guide ratio at 2:1 or lower.

Time and Place

This is a custom program. Each expedition will depart from Talkeetna, AK in a bush plane and will spend generally 8-12 days on the glacier depending on the goals and abilities of the climber.

Equipment List

All the technical climbing equipment and group expedition camping equipment required for this outing is included.