Mt Rainier: Kautz Glacier Route

The Kautz Route is a perfect introduction to glaciated mountaineering on Mt. Rainier. 

July 5-9, 2022
*2021 trip climbs Kautz Glacier Route


The Kautz involves a bit of easy ice climbing (WI2-3), scrambling, glacier travel, and steep snow climbing.

$2,300 per person

  • glacier crossing enroute to summit of mt rainier

The Kautz route is a great introduction to glacier travel and technical snow & ice

This route is perfect for testing your metal for bigger glaciated alpine objectives.

With nearly 9000 ft of elevation gain reaching a 14,410 ft summit over four days, a high level of fitness is required.

The Kautz is achievable for moderately experienced mountaineers who want a bit more technical challenge than the Disappointment Cleaver or Ingraham Glacier

  • high camp on ridge of Mount Rainier

Climbing the Kautz Route with Peak will prepare you for glacier objectives

By climbing Mt. Rainier with experienced Peak Mountain Guides, you will learn essential mountaineering skills required for glacier travel. 

Glacier travel skills:

  • Small-team crevasse rescue
  • Glacier rope-team travel
  • Basic glaciology
  • Snow and ice anchor building
  • Self-belay and self-arrest with an ice axe

Expedition & mountaineering skills:

  • Map, compass, & GPS navigation
  • Basic ice climbing technique
  • Alpine ecology and local natural history
  • Expedition camping and cooking
  • Leave No Trace principles for an alpine environment. 

Despite being a guided trip, you will be involved in the team as a partner.

We help you progress your alpine skills by constructing an experience that allows you to learn and apply your skills under guidance in real situations.

  •  starting up the turtle snowfield on the Kautz Route

Climb Mt. Rainier fast & light with a small group

We exclusively operate our guided climb of the Kautz route as a small group for the greatest chance of success.

This low climber-to-guide ratio maximizes the chance for success on summit day and ensures you will get ample time for personalized instruction and coaching throughout the climb. 

On Rainier, groups from the same company of over 10 clients and 5 guides moving as one large unit is not uncommon. 

With Peak, this is not your run-of-the-mill Mt. Rainier trip. We only run the Kautz route with a low ratio group of 4 guests and 2 guides.

  •  starting up the turtle snowfield on the Kautz Route

An Additional Day to maximize the chance of summiting.

This program includes an additional day at Camp Hazard to allow for proper rest and acclimatization prior to the summit attempt. It also provides an extra day for the summit attempt in case of poor weather.

Contact Us

The Peak Guide House
311 Main Street | Ouray CO 81427

Peak Mountain Guides, LLC
160 Liddell St. #C3 | Ridgway CO 81432
PO Box 2051 | Ridgway CO 81432

Authorized Permittee

Peak Mountain Guides is an authorized permittee of the Grand Mesa, Uncompahgre, Gunnison National Forest; San Juan National Forest; Bureau of Land Management Monticello, Moab, Gunnison, and Glennallen Field Offices; Eldorado Canyon State Park; Ouray Ice Park, City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks; and National Parks including Mt. Rainier, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and Colorado National Monument. Peak Mountain Guides is an equal opportunity service provider.