Mt Rainier: Kautz Glacier Route

The Kautz Route is a perfect introduction to technical mountaineering on Mt. Rainier. 

The transition from Peak Mountain Guides to Mountain Trip has happened! Please contact Mountain Trip’s Telluride, CO office at 970-369-1153 for more information.

  • the Kautz Glacier Route on Mt. Rainier

Learn glacier travel, technical snow climbing & ice climbing on a classic expedition

The Kautz route is the best route on Rainier if you want a more technical challenge than the Disappointment Cleaver or Ingraham Glacier.

The WI3 ice climbing section of this climb is possible to do with minimal ice climbing experience with the help of a guide. Which makes the route perfect for learning technical ice climbing and steep snow climbing on an expedition.

With nearly 9000 ft of elevation gain reaching a 14,410 ft summit over four days, a high level of fitness is required. You must be in good enough shape to carry an expedition pack (40-45-lbs) by the time of the trip.

The Kautz route is the only route we guide on Rainier because we believe it’s a perfect training ground for bigger glaciated alpine objectives.

  • high camp on ridge of Mount Rainier

Get prepared for bigger glaciated objectives 

On the Kautz, you will learn essential mountaineering skills required for glacier travel. With 1 on 1 mentorship from experienced Peak Mountain Guides.

Glacier travel skills:

  • Small-team crevasse rescue
  • Glacier rope-team travel
  • Basic glaciology
  • Snow and ice anchor building
  • Self-belay and self-arrest with an ice axe

Expedition & mountaineering skills:

  • Map, compass, & GPS navigation
  • Basic ice climbing technique
  • Alpine ecology and local natural history
  • Expedition camping and cooking
  • Leave No Trace principles for an alpine environment. 

Despite being a guided trip, you will be involved in the team as a partner allowing you to apply these skills, under guidance, in real situations.

  •  starting up the turtle snowfield on the Kautz Route

Climb Mt. Rainier fast & light with a small group

We exclusively operate our guided climb of the Kautz route as a small group for the greatest chance of success.

This low climber-to-guide ratio maximizes the chance for success on summit day and ensures you will get ample time for personalized instruction and coaching throughout the climb. 

On Rainier, groups from the same company of over 10 clients and 5 guides moving as one large unit is not uncommon. 

With Peak, this is not your run-of-the-mill Mt. Rainier trip. We only run the Kautz route with a low ratio group of 4 guests and 2 guides.

  •  starting up the turtle snowfield on the Kautz Route

We plan for an additional day to maximize the chance of summiting.

This program includes an additional day at Camp Hazard to allow for proper rest and acclimatization prior to the summit attempt. It also provides an extra day for the summit attempt in case of poor weather.

Contact Us

Mountain Trip

135 W Colorado Ave 2A | Telluride, C0 81435

Authorized Permittee

Peak Mountain Guides is an authorized permittee of the Grand Mesa, Uncompahgre, Gunnison National Forest; San Juan National Forest; Bureau of Land Management Monticello, Moab, Gunnison, and Glennallen Field Offices; Eldorado Canyon State Park; Ouray Ice Park, City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks; and National Parks including Mt. Rainier, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and Colorado National Monument. Peak Mountain Guides is an equal opportunity service provider.