Backcountry Ice Climbing

The backcountry ice climbing in the San Juan Mountains around Ouray, Silverton, and Telluride has been an epicenter for ice climbing for decades, and for good reason. The climbs have short approaches, the ice is consistently reliable, and climbs for every ability.

Mountain Trip will now be handling booking for Backcountry Ice Climbing. Please call 970-369-1153 to book.

There is a lifetime’s worth of routes in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado. Conditions vary throughout the season, but the good news: your guide from Peak will know the best possible objectives given weather and conditions on any given day in the winter.

Early Season

The season in Ouray starts early. There is reliably ice formed by the second week of December. It’s not uncommon for some backcountry routes to come in before Thanksgiving. If you have a the flexibility to come before the Christmas/New Year holiday the Ice Park may not yet be open but you’ll have many of the climbing areas in the region to yourself.

Consistent Ice

Specific routes can be in great climbing shape one day, and out another…but one of the qualities that makes Ouray an international destination how consistently ice in this area forms. From early season to late into March we are fortunate to have very consistent conditions. The Ice Park is at a lower elevation and sees a significant amount of traffic. However, in the backcountry we can seek out the best conditions by going to higher elevations or by avoiding the crowds in general.

Eureka /yo͞oˈrēkə/ A cry of joy or satisfaction when one finds or discovers something. Tucked away in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado, Eureka is an area near Silverton with a number of classic routes. On a whim, Lance and Joe link up Stairway to Heaven, Highway to Hell, and Whorehouse Hoses.

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There is a 3 pitch route named Skylight for which this area is named. Along Camp Bird Road are a number of single and mulit-pitch climbs a short approach from the winter road closure. Choppo’s Chimney, Slip Sliding Away, Skylight, and Chockstone Chimney are great climbs in addition to numerous mixed and dry tool routes.

North of Silverton is a ghost town of an abandoned mine called Eureka. The Eureka zone is host to several ultra classic climbs such as Stairway to Heaven, Whorehouse Hoses, and Dukes of Hazard (plus too many more to list). This area is higher in elevation and generally much colder than the Ouray area and the climbs tend to be greater in length.

A great Ouray classic just a short two minute drive up Highway 550. We park on the side of the highway and make a 5 minute descent into the canyon. After crossing the river, it’s a few more minutes of walking, before racking up to start the steep WI 4 start, which is the crux. The subsequent pitches ease off and make an incredibly enjoyable outing. The descent require some easy down climbing and one short rappel.